I recently attended the local Sci-Fi Expo (Comic-Con) and fell in love with some of the toys available for geeks. I am amazed at the progress of things since I was a kid and I really just can’t help myself. But the thing that I bit the hardest on was the combat-grade lightsabers from ULTRASABERS.com. This bit of Geekery had me salivating from the first touch. I am already up to 4 in my personal arsenal, and we have regular practices in the front yard at dusk with my girlfriend and 10-year old son that stop traffic.
These super-tough machined aluminum handles with heavy duty polycarbonate light tube are just what every saber-fighting-imagination could want. I have taken fencing lessons on and off for almost 20 years, and love sword fighting. I’ve fenced competitively and for show at the local renaissance fairs (yeah big geek). But it’s hard to get people interested in learning this lost art. But put a light-up sword in their hands which has built-in sound effects and instantly the inner child pops out.
These things are built to take a licking, the Heavy-Gauge blades on my first two have seen hours of fencing practice and the occasional whack to a tree, chair, light post, or asphalt. Best off – IF (big if) you can break a blade a new on can be ordered for about $20. Available in your choice of colors and hilt styles you can get one to your door for as little as $50 or tack on enough extras to push them upwards of $400. Good news, I really bet you could put down a walker with one of theses in a pinch, and practice with them will strengthen your arm muscles to more effectively wield a Katana should the need arise, like Michonne, and remember children, blades never run out f ammo.
1. On Homepage option #1 is: “Sabers WITH sound” or “Sabers without sound”
a. Sound is about $80-$100 over the listed price for any saber.
b. Sound requires the $35 rechargeable Li-ion batteries – includes charger
c. Sound is what makes it really cool (and is USB Programmable)
2. Single sword or double bladed saber-staff
i. 2 identical handles (Hilts)
ii. 2 different ones that can attach if you want them to.
iii. When separate do you want them both to have sound
iv. YOU WILL NEED A COUPLER – Vented (So the sound can get out) – go back and add to cart later
3. Hilt – what do you want it to look like $55 – $225
Now you are in the “select options’ section of the order. Here is the 10-step program.
Before you start though – scroll all the way to the bottom and look at the pictures and videos, and at the very bottom is a description, look for the bullet points that say : Removable Emitter/Pommel (MHS)
The MHS is a screw threading type, that tells you if the top and bottom are interchangeable
You can find options in the build your own saber section on the home page LATER.
Now you are ready to order – It took me a week to read up on all these options, here is the really quick run through.
Options to build your saber —
- Blade light Color options
- Pick a color — Single color forever
- (Quick Disconnect) Single color with removable LED unit
- Can buy another color later $35- remove blade, unclip unit, fairly easy
- White LED with filters (like spotlight gels)
- Gels are $3-5, are re-usable, and east to change, pull blade, drop in, and color of the rainbow
- The filter does decrease the intensity a little (5% per layer)
- R-G-B LED
- Adds 3 power buttons for red-green-blue LEDs –
- You can select any combination of 1-2or3 of the switches (Blue+Red=Violet – 7 color options ROYGBIV)
- Flash-On-Clash –
- pretty easy, adds a white (or contrasting color) LED hooked up to the shock sensor,
- strobes 1-3 times when the clash sound goes off
- Battery Configuration
- If you want sound get the Li-ion
- Resistor regulates a maximum voltage to the LED, as batteries die, blade dims. Makes batteries seem to last longer
- Buckpuck is a voltage controller – maintains a minimum LED Voltage, when batteries get low light goes out, no dimming
- The 14500 3.7v “AA” sized batteries are 4/$12 on amazon and have a chip in them to prevent damage to saber
- If you don’t’ have sound, the 4-AAA setup is ok, but alkaline batters go pretty quick
- If you want sound get the Li-ion
- Recharge Port – this is great if you don’t want to take saber apart, just plug it in
- Only drawback – can’t swap batteries and go back to fight
- 0.2A charger “a few hours”
- 1.2A Charger – 30 min. Enough to plug in and leave on forever
- If you get a recharge port go back to batteries and select *ONLY Batteries* don’t really need 2 chargers
- Blade Option
- Ultra edge is white film, a little brighter, but looks like a Fluorescent tube when off
- Regular have a silver film that looks great when off, but the end is a little dimmer
- Heavy gauge are the tough dueling blades, again a little dimmer (in either UE white or silver film) but very durable
- Sound – You made this decision earlier, stick to your guns
- Option to get the light-up switch in a matching color, it’s neat looking, but your call for $25
- Pommel – the bottom cap of your saber, scroll to the bottom and look at the options
- If tis MHS compatible, You can add a different ones from the “build your own” section later
- Blade Tip / Wrench / Plug add-ons
- On the Tip – get round, the “bullet point” will only make it more dangerous and slow sown lead time
- Blade retention Wrench – Get one, it $1, if you lose it go to Home depot and get a 2mm allen wrench for $2
- Blade Plug – I always get one. use the tool above to remove blade and drop it in.
- The “plug” is a 2” section of blade with a reflective cap. Protects the electronics if you store/carry it without the full blade.
- Covertec Wheel / Clip
- This is the belt hook. If you want to wear just the handle on your belt for a costume – get them
- If you are only going to use them with the blade attached for fighting in the yard and causing car wrecks – Don’t need it
- Add to cart, you can always add multiple versions with different sets of options and then compare the costs in the cart
- Delete the unneeded ones before purchasing.